Making the most of meat

Meat only poses two possible threats, namely its visible fat and the fact that too much of any good thing is .... well, not much good. Eating too much meat means you are eating too much saturated fat, absorbing too many unwanted fat kilojoules and pushing your protein intake through the roof.

Enjoyed in moderation though, lean red meat (with all visible fat removed) is quite a bright star in the nutrient skies. It is rich in potassium, B vitamins, zinc and iron and an excellent source of protein. Served in small, lean portions with the addition of dietary fibre, red meat will enhance your health rather than harm it.

Fibre, as found in grains, dried beans and vegetables, helps to fight heart disease, digestive disorders and certain types of cancer. These foods, when served with meat, will assist your body in coping with the hidden fats in the meat. Fibre-rich foods will also help you feel satisfied faster and for longer - an excellent way in which to help you control your meat intake and so too, those unwanted fat kilojoules.

You can make some clever cuts in your meat consumption, and I am not referring to cutting it out. I mean buying and eating cuts that contain less of the hidden fats (often called the marble fat) and cholesterol-causing saturated fat. Be 'pound' wise and buy clever cuts. Those are the hind-quarter cuts such as fillet, rump, topside and leg of lamb. They contain the least hidden fats. However, even after the visible fat has been removed, you'd be surprised to know how much fat is hidden in what you deem 'pure' meat.

The cooking method also dictates how much fat you will eventually consume. Red meat actually loses weight during cooking or grilling on a rack, and depending on the period of time for which the meat is exposed to the heat, between 7 and 23% of the fat could drip away. That is provided of course you don't consume the pan drippings! With stews and casseroles, in which the fat becomes part of the sauce, no dripping away of fat takes place and it seeps into the cooking liquids. Those you end up eating by way of the gravy or a sauce. And needless to say, frying meat in fat or oil obviously adds even more fat (and unwanted) kilojoules to your unsuspecting body - rather a stupid thing to do if you want to be lean and healthy. So consider your cut and its cooking method with great care if you care about your weight.

Best of all course, is to go wild. it you enjoy red meat, 'have venison often. A very large serving of grilled game steak (300 g) will only add a humble 9,6 g of fat to your intake, whereas a similar serving of grilled beef steak (rump, fat removed) could add as much as 30 g of fat.

Similarly, if you enjoy poultry, be game for game. Ostrich, pheasant and quail are ultra-lean and 300 g of roast game will only provide you with about 10,5 g of fat. On the other hand, if you roasted (with the skin intact) and consumed its domesticated counterpart the chicken, the exact same size of serving will happily lay in the region of 39 g of fat on your body.

Be cautioned, though; game and venison tend to be dry - as a result of their low fat content - so don't defeat the whole object by adding buffer, oil, bacon, lard or cream to the dish. Use wine, fruit and stocks instead to moisten the meat. As for a sauce or gravy, the stock of game or venison is delightfully robust in flavour. Reduce your cooking liquid by boiling it rapidly with garlic, aromatic peppercorns and herbs until richly brown and thickened to your liking. A wiser, leaner and more nourishing bet than a creamy sauce, for sure.

Don't inhibit your^- nutrients

There is no point in trying to follow a healthy diet if you are not aware of the fact that the absorption of certain nutrients can be inhibited. In other words, their assimilation and uptake by the body can be hindered by some or other bad food combination with nutrient inhibitors.

The nutrients most at risk are calcium and iron. Thus, try not to consume calcium-rich foods with alcohol, high-fibre cereals or red meats - they restrict the absorption of calcium. This means for example, that it is not wise to combine cheese and wine or cereal and milk. Serve wine with low-fat meat, chicken, fish, fruit and vegetable snacks and your cereal with fruit juice instead of milk. Vitamin D, however, aids the absorption of calcium. As sunlight is an excellent way to improve your vitamin D levels, serve lean, fruity milkshakes around your pool instead of fruit juices. That way your body will benefit fully from your clever combinations.

The absorption of iron is hampered by the simultaneous intake of tea, red wine and high-fibre cereals, so don't serve, say, iron-rich liver with whole wheat bread or brown rice, Rather serve it with potatoes or white rice. On the other hand, foods rich in vitamin C assist in the absorption of non-heam iron (iron derived from vegetables), so combine those foods for optimum nutrition. For instance, a salad made from iron-rich spinach, vitamin C-rich tomatoes and sweet peppers would be an excellent choice for super-A nutrient absorption without any threat of inhibitors.

Mussels a la Provençal

2 kg (about 48) black mussels, scrubbed and debearded

200 g butter

1 onion, finely chopped

250 ml white wine

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

15 ml crushed garlic

2 ripe tomatoes, blanched, skinned and chopped

60 ml chopped fresh parsley

Heat 60 g of the butter in a large pot and fry the onion for about 2 minutes until golden.

Add the wine, thyme and bay leaves and bring to the boil. Add mussels, cover and boil until they open wide. Discard any which remain shut. Strain the sauce into a clean pot. Deshell the mussels and gently pull out any beards that remain.

Heat the remaining butter in a clean frying pan and gently fry the mussels. Add the garlic, tomato and parsley, and heat through. Serve hot with new potatoes. Serves 4

Stuffed Calamari a la Marseillaise

1 kg whole calamari (with tentacles),

well cleaned

olive oil, salt, milled black pepper

2 onions, finely chopped

100 g white bread

1 litre milk

2 ripe tomatoes, blanched, skinned

and diced 3 egg yolks 15 ml crushed garlic

60 ml chopped fresh parsley

250 ml white wine

125 ml water

100 g fresh white breadcrumbs

Set the oven at 180° C. Grease a baking dish. Cut off the calamari tentacles and chop finely. Clean the calamari tubes ready for stuffing.

Heat a little olive oil in a medium saucepan and fry the onion and calamari tentacles until golden.

Place the bread in a bowl, pour over the milk and soak.

Squeeze out the excess milk, and add the bread to the pan with the tomato, egg yolks and half the garlic and parsley. Mix well. Season with salt and pepper.

Fill the calamari tubes with the stuffing and sew closed with string, or fasten with skewers.

Place in the baking dish, pour in the white wine and water and season with salt and pepper. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes.

Remove the foil and heat the oven grill. Mix together the breadcrumbs, remaining garlic and parsley, sprinkle on top of the calamari and grill until golden brown. Serves 6

Sole Huguenot and Hollandaise Sauce

6 soles, filleted; reserve skin and bones vegetable oil

12 button mushrooms

500 ml dry white wine

500 ml water

30 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice

5 ml dried thyme

3 bay leaves

4 sprigs fresh parsley

1 onion, sliced

6 large lettuce leaves

2 ml salt

2 egg yolks

400 g soft butter, cut into 1 cm squares

Place the top of the double boiler in the fridge to chill. Heat oil in a frying pan and fry the mushrooms until lightly browned. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Measure 30 ml each of the wine and water into a medium saucepan and add the lemon juice, thyme, 1 bay leaf, 1 parsley sprig and 1 slice of onion. Simmer uncovered until reduced by half. Strain and chill.

Lay lettuce leaves in a metal or enamel oven dish. Top with the remaining onion, bay leaves and parsley, and add fish skin and bones.

Starting at the tail ends, roll up the sole fillets and secure with toothpicks. Place on the bones or lettuce leaves (if the fish touches the dish it may stick). Pour in the remaining wine and water, season with salt, cover with foil and bring to the boil on the stovetop. When the foil puffs up with steam, remove from the heat and uncover.

Remove sole rolls, place on warm plates and carefully remove the toothpicks. Keep warm.

Place the baking dish on the stovetop and boil uncovered until reduced by 80%. Strain.

Hollandaise Sauce: Place the chilled, flavoured wine reduction in the top of the double boiler with the egg yolks. Whisk in a piece of butter with a hand whisk.

Place in the base over simmering water and whisk in the butter bit by bit until the sauce thickens.

Remove from the heat and pour some of the sauce into a gravy boat.

Add 45-60 ml reduced fish stock to the remaining sauce and pour over the sole rolls. Garnish with a mushroom and place the plates under a hot grill for 1 minute.

Serve with the remaining hollandaise sauce, mashed potato and lightly cooked vegetables.

Serves 6